The rhythmic clatter of spatulas and the aroma of chicken stew that usually define James Hickey Sarani (Dacres Lane) have been replaced by an eerie tension. On Thursday, March 12, 2026, the historic food alley—the lifeline for thousands of central Kolkata office-goers—entered its third day of a crippling LPG crisis.
The global energy war has finally hit the “Cabin” culture of Kolkata. For many heritage shops that have survived for over a century, the threat isn’t a lack of customers, but the simple inability to light a flame.
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The Silence of the Cabin: Chitto Babu’s Struggle
At Chitto Babu’s Cabin, a name synonymous with the culinary history of the city, the mood is grim.
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Limited Service: Half the items are off the menu.
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The Uncertainty: “We have no idea if we’ll be open tomorrow,” the owner told My Kolkata, expressing frustration over the constant inquiries from journalists and hungry patrons alike.
Economic Fallout: Wages and Black Marketing
For the managers and owners, the shortage is quickly turning into a financial catastrophe.
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The Wage Gap: Swapan Biswas, manager of Suruchee, expressed fear that he might not be able to pay his staff this month if production remains halted.
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The Cost Hike: At Romesh Babur Dokan, owner Bappa Saha revealed that vendors have stopped supplying commercial cylinders entirely. Those available on the black market are being sold with an extra ₹1,000 markup, making them unaffordable for small-scale eateries.
The Return to Firewood: A Primitive Survival Strategy
In a desperate bid to stay afloat, Dacres Lane is moving backward in time.
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Wood Ovens: Shops equipped with old-fashioned wood-burning ovens are the only ones successfully serving food.
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The Menu: These shops have limited their output to tea and ghugni, as these require less consistent heat than fried snacks or elaborate stews.
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Kerosene Costs: Even kerosene, the traditional backup fuel, has seen a price surge, leaving shopkeepers like Sourav Halder of Classic East Food Centre with no options left.
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Office Crowds vs. Empty Plates
Despite the shortage, the demand remains relentless. The ‘bhaater hotels’ (rice eateries) have cut their meal volumes by half, but the influx of office workers from nearby Dalhousie and Esplanade has not ebbed. This has created a “hunger gap” in central Kolkata, with many workers unable to find their standard afternoon meals.
Reality Check
The energy crisis in Dacres Lane is a microcosm of a larger supply chain collapse. Still, the resilience of the wood-stove owners proves that “low-tech” solutions are currently the only reliable ones. Therefore, while the LPG companies are being prayed to like “gods,” the real salvation for these shops will only come when the maritime blockade in West Asia eases. In fact, if the crisis lasts another week, many of these “century-old” heritage spots may face permanent closure.
The Loopholes
The government says it is managing the “essential supply.” In fact, this is a “Commercial vs. Domestic Loophole”—while domestic LPG supplies for households are being prioritized to prevent public outcry, commercial users (like these eateries) are being left to fend for themselves on the expensive open market. Therefore, your home stove might be burning, but your lunch at work is disappearing. Still, the “Vendor Loophole” remains; many vendors have “switched off their phones” to hoard existing stock, waiting for prices to peak further before selling to the highest bidder.
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What This Means for You
If you work in central Kolkata, don’t rely on Dacres Lane for lunch today. First, realize that your favorite shop might be closed or serving only a fraction of its usual menu. Then, if you must eat out, understand that prices may be hiked by 20–30% as shops try to cover the black-market cost of fuel.
Finally, understand that the hygiene factor may change. With shops switching to wood and kerosene, the smoke and soot levels in the narrow lane are significantly higher. Before you head out, check if home-cooked tiffin services are available, as they often have domestic gas backups that haven’t been hit as hard as the commercial supply.
What’s Next
Expect a formal protest by the Kolkata Hotel & Restaurant Association tomorrow if supply doesn’t resume. Then, look for the State Government to intervene with a “priority ration” for small-scale heritage eateries. Finally, expect Dacres Lane to remain “limited menu only” for at least the next 72 hours.
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